Painting a concrete floor is a worthwhile DIY project that can transform a dull space into an amazing area. Whether you’re revamping your garage floor or refreshing your patio, the right approach to paint concrete floors ensures a durable and visually appealing finish. Follow this comprehensive guide to learn the best practices for painting concrete floors, from preparation to the finishing touches.

We also have a great article on epoxy bathroom floors.

Introduction

Painting your concrete floor is an excellent way to refresh your space, be it a garage, basement, or an outdoor patio. With the right tools and techniques, even those with minimal experience can achieve a smooth, durable finish.

The TL;DR version can be viewed through this Bunnings DIY video:

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=CpL7t7MDhMM

Materials Needed

To start your painting project, gather all the must-have supplies to ensure a smooth process:

• Acrylic latex concrete paint and patio floor paint: Choose high-quality paint designed for concrete surfaces.
• Primer: A concrete primer is essential for ensuring paint adhesion.
• Putty knife, wire brush, and paint stripper: For removing old paint and smoothing surfaces.
• Roller, roller covers, and paint tray: For applying paint and primer.
• Painter’s tape: To protect edges and corners.
• Bucket, sponge, and dish soap: For cleaning the floor.
• Hand sander or sandpaper: For sanding rough areas.

These supplies are specifically chosen for their effectiveness on concrete flooring, emphasizing the importance of selecting the right materials for concrete surfaces.

Preparation of the Concrete Floor

Proper preparation is important for a successful paint job on concrete floors. Removing all the old paint (if any), including leftover paint or paint stains, is essential for achieving a smooth concrete surface. This step ensures that the floor is free of imperfections that could affect the final appearance. Sanding down high spots not only helps in eliminating any remaining paint but also aims to create an even concrete surface that’s ideal for painting.

Cleaning and Repairing

1. Remove Dirt and Debris: Use a vacuum to clean the floor thoroughly. For stubborn dirt or stains, use a bucket with warm water and dish soap to scrub the surface.
2. Strip Old Paint: If there’s peeling or flaking paint, use a paint stripper and a putty knife to remove it.
3. Sanding & Grinding: Rough areas should be sanded or ground down to create a smooth surface. Depending on how rough your floor is, you can hire concrete grinders and sander from hire outlets like Kennards or Coates.
4. Repair Cracks and Holes: Fill any cracks or holes with a cement filler. Use a putty knife to smooth the filler and ensure it’s level with the floor.

Moisture Test

Before applying new paint, conduct a moisture test. Tape a plastic sheet to the floor and leave it for 24 hours. If condensation forms underneath, the concrete has too much moisture for painting.

Applying Primer

Priming is essential for a long-lasting paint job. It helps the paint adhere better and last longer.

Primer Application

1. Apply Masonry Sealer: If needed, apply a masonry sealer with a roller to block moisture.
2. Priming: Apply a concrete primer using a roller. Start from the far corner of the room and work towards the door. Allow the primer to dry completely according to the application instructions.

Painting Concrete Floors Process

The main task of your project is the painting process. Use a roller for the best results, and follow these steps for applying acrylic latex concrete paint. For those considering an alternative finish, concrete stain might be an appealing option. Acid-based stains penetrate the concrete, offering longer-lasting coverage with a unique appearance, though they may result in some streaking and unevenness. In contrast, painting concrete provides a more uniform and richly colored finish but may not be as durable over time.

Base Coat

1. First Coat: Pour the paint into a paint tray. Begin at the farthest corner of the room and use a roller to apply a thin, even coat. Use painter’s tape to protect walls and corners.
2. Let the First Coat Dry: Allow the first coat to dry completely. This can take several hours, depending on air circulation and humidity.

Second Coat

1. Apply the Second Coat: After the first coat is dry, apply the second coat. This ensures a durable and opaque finish.
2. Dry Completely: Let the second coat dry completely, which can be time-consuming but is essential for a durable finish.

Finishing Touches

Applying Concrete Floor Sealer

After the paint has dried, apply a concrete sealer. This will protect your painted floor from moisture, stains, and wear, especially in high traffic areas.

1. Sealer Application: Use a clean roller to apply the sealer. Start from the back of the room and work towards the entrance.
2. Let the Sealer Dry: Allow ample time for the sealer to dry. Avoid walking on the floor until the sealer is completely dry.

Maintenance and Care

To maintain your newly painted concrete floor, regular cleaning and occasional touch-ups are necessary.

• Regular Cleaning: Sweep the floor regularly and mop with a gentle cleaner.
• Occasional Touch-Ups: For scratches or peeling, apply a small amount of paint to the affected area.

Final Points

Painting a concrete floor can significantly improve the appearance of your space. With the right preparation, materials, and techniques, you can achieve a professional-quality finish that is both beautiful and durable. Remember to allow each layer to dry completely and follow all application instructions for the best results.

In this article we look at the process of how to epoxy garage floor with a focus on straightforward, achievable steps. You’ll learn what tools and materials are required, how to prepare the concrete, and the key techniques for application.

Be sure to check out our article on epoxy bathroom floors.

Points Of Note

• Epoxy garage floors offer superior durability, resistance to chemicals, stain and moisture, as well as enhanced aesthetic appeal with various colours and finishes.
• Proper preparation is key, requiring thorough cleaning, degreasing, and etching of the concrete surface, while ensuring personal safety with the use of protective equipment.
• DIY epoxy application involves assessing the floor condition, repairing imperfections, accurately mixing and evenly applying the epoxy, and allowing a sufficient curing time of around 7 days.

Below is an informative from Bunnings video of you’d rather note read the full article.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=JpyIoxgdIBg

The Positives of Epoxy Garage Floors

One of the key advantages of using epoxy for garage floors, as opposed to concrete flooring, is their strength and resilience. These floors are highly resistant to damage from vehicles, machinery and spills containing chemicals. They have properties that make them resistant to stains and moisture making them an ideal choice for garages which may be prone to various types of spillage.

Aside from practical purposes, epoxy floors can greatly enhance the visual appeal of a garage space. With numerous colour options available along with different finishes such as glossy or matte surfaces, you can personalise your floor according to your unique style preferences. The smooth finish achieved by applying an epoxy coating on top gives off a professional look transforming any ordinary storage area into something more refined.

Preparing for Your DIY Epoxy Garage Floor Project

Before beginning the application of epoxy coating, it ‘s important to consider all the required materials and tools. These include: epoxy paint, TSP cleaner and degreaser, concrete etching solution, primer and polyurethane for preparation. As well as xylene solvent, epoxy flakes with pigments for colour options. And various tools like a vacuum or power washer along with scrub brush & roller.

There are also a number of off the shelf options available in Australia. An example of a product that is becoming quite popular is UCoat.

Safety measures should always be prioritised in any DIY project involving handling of chemicals such as epoxy resin during the coating process. It’s highly recommended to use safety glasses/goggles equipped with side shields while working on this type of projects for protection against potential eye injuries caused by dust particles/mist formation. Respiratory masks are also advised since they can prevent inhalation hazards associated with painting indoors.

In addition,care must be taken to protect hands using protective gloves from Epoxy Resin specifically. The selected devices could effectively minimise user exposure risks occurring throughout entire work duration.

Assessing Your Garage Floor’s Condition

It is important to evaluate the condition of your garage floor before beginning any epoxy application. Be on the lookout for indications such as existing coatings, including stubborn discoloration and stains that cannot be removed through scrubbing. Damage in the form of chipping, peeling, flaking or pitting. And discoloured concrete surfaces.

There are various types of coatings commonly found on garage floors. These may include oil-based paint, latex-based paint, epoxy floor coatings, and polyurethane.

Cleaning and Prepping the Concrete Surface

Preparing your garage floor properly is a vital step before applying an epoxy coating. This involves several key tasks such as clearing the area, degreasing the surface and etching the concrete for optimal adhesion. These steps are essential to ensure a smooth and even finish of the final epoxy layer on your garage floor.

Clearing the Garage Space

To prepare for your epoxy project, the first step is to clear out your garage. This means removing all items from both the floor and the space itself, so that you have a clean area to work with. In order to efficiently organise and de-clutter your garage, it’s important to install open shelving units and categorise belongings for easier access.

Safety should be top priority when clearing out a garage for an epoxy project. Here are some guidelines:

1. Sweep or vacuum thoroughly in order to remove any debris.
2. Use warm water mixed with mild detergent while cleaning.
3. Make sure there is proper ventilation in the workspace.
4. Keep children and pets away during this process.
5. For tougher stains or dirt, use gentle soap as needed.

Degreasing the Floor

Before applying epoxy, it is important to eliminate any typical oil and grease blemishes from garage floors. This can be accomplished with the use of a degreaser.

For safety purposes, make sure to wear proper protective gear such as gloves, face shields and goggles when using the degreaser in order to protect yourself against chemical splashes or fumes. Avoid mixing different cleaning products together as this could potentially result in harmful reactions.

Etching the Concrete Surface

The next step in preparing the concrete slab is to etch its surface after it has been degreased. Etching creates a rough and porous texture, which promotes better adhesion of epoxy to the concrete and ensures a durable bond.

To safely apply the etching solution according to manufacturer’s instructions, certain precautions should be taken into consideration.

• Avoid any direct contact between skin or eyes with the etching solution.
• Wear proper protective gear like safety glasses and work gloves.
• Use appropriate face masks while applying as dust may occur.
• Take necessary measures for protecting surrounding areas from exposure to the strong etching solution.

Repairing Cracks and Imperfections

Before applying epoxy, it is important to repair any cracks and imperfections on your garage floor. There are numerous products on the market to fill small crack or lines in concrete.

Once the repairs have been made, it is recommended to smooth out the surface for optimal results. You can achieve this by hand sanding with 80-100 grit sandpaper or using higher grade (200-400 grit) paper for a super smooth finish. For larger areas or very rough surfaces, you may even need to use a concrete grinder.

These are generally quilte expensive to purchase, so your best option is likely to hire from Kennards or Coastes for example.

Mixing and Applying the Epoxy Coating

With the garage floor properly prepped, it is now time to mix and administer the epoxy coating. This step demands careful attention in order to achieve an even application of the epoxy for optimal results on your garage floor.

Mixing the Epoxy Components

The initial step in this process involves combining the components of epoxy. For garage floors, it is advised to follow a mix ratio of 1:1, 2:1, 3:1 or 5:1 when mixing resin and hardener. The end result may vary depending on individual preferences and product used as websites often rely on cookies and data to personalise content and ads.

To ensure a more comprehensive blend, using a variable-speed drill with a mixing blade is recommended although hand-mixing can also be done. It is suggested to mix the epoxy resin and hardener for at least three-four minutes until all components are uniformly combined.

 

Applying the Epoxy Coating

When it’s time to start applying epoxy coatings on the garage floor, make sure that you have mixed all the components together thoroughly as above or to the manufacturers instructions.. To begin with, use a brush to spread the mixture along edges and corners of your garage flooring.

You may need to tape the edges first so you don’t end of getting the resin on the walls or skirts.

Next step is using a roller for larger surface areas while evenly spreading thin layers at once. While doing so in smaller sections would ensure perfect coverage and proper adhesion across every part of your floor. Don’t forget to keep an eye on layer thickness and make sure there are no uneven spots when you apply the epoxy coating.

Enhancing Your Epoxy Floor with Colour Flakes

To add a personalised touch and camouflage any remaining flaws on your epoxy floor, consider incorporating colour flakes. These versatile elements are available in various shades to complement the style and ambience of your garage.

For optimal results, it is recommended to sprinkle the coloured flakes onto the wet and adhesive epoxy surface. This guarantees strong adhesion as well as a consistent appearance. The amount of flakes used can be adjusted according to desired coverage level for an even finish.

Curing Time and Post-Application Care

The curing process for epoxy garage floors, which involves applying both the epoxy and colour flakes, typically takes about a week. This time frame allows for adequate setting and hardening of the coating before it is safe to walk on.

There are various factors that can affect the duration of this cure period, such as type of product used and environmental conditions like temperature and humidity. For those in need of a quicker turnaround time, methods like using heat sources (e.g. hair dryer) or maintaining warmer temperatures may help expedite the process.

DIY vs. Hiring a Professional: Weighing the Pros and Cons

Deciding between tackling a DIY project or hiring a professional is an important factor to consider when it comes to garage floor coatings. While the cost for DIY epoxy garage floor coatings can be relatively low, typically under $2000 depending on the size, opting for a professional installation may set you back around $5500 or more, again depending on the size. Generally cost we will be determined by the squares metres to be covered.

It should be noted that choosing to have your epoxy floors installed by professionals often results in thicker and higher quality finishes compared to those achieved with standard DIY kits. Professionals possess expertise that allows them avoid common mistakes made during do-it-yourself projects such as improper preparation of the surface, incorrect mixing of epoxies and overlooking factors like temperature and humidity conditions.

Final Notes

To summarise, applying an epoxy coating to your garage floor can completely transform its appearance and functionality. This type of coating offers a long-lasting, resistant surface that is both visually pleasing and able to withstand the wear and tear of everyday use. While proper preparation is crucial for success in this project, whether you opt to tackle it yourself or hire a professional, the end result will be a durable and attractive garage floor that meets all your needs.

Popular Questions

Can I epoxy my garage floor myself?

Applying epoxy to your garage floor can be done by yourself with some dedication and willingness to learn. It is a suitable DIY project, even for those who have little experience. The process involves using epoxy on the floor of your garage and requires patience and time, but yields great results.

How do I prepare my garage floor for epoxy?

Before applying epoxy to your garage floor, it is important to properly prepare the surface. Start by clearing out all items from the floor and giving it a thorough cleaning. Next, use diamond grinding or shot blasting techniques to create texture on the concrete for better adhesion of the epoxy.

Once that step is completed, check for any cracks in the concrete and fill them before proceeding with application. Allow enough time for proper drying of both filling material and concrete prior to starting with layering epoxy onto your garage floor.

Is it worth putting epoxy on garage floor?

Using epoxy coatings on your garage floor is a worthwhile decision as it can effectively prolong the lifespan of your concrete flooring and enhance its strength, making it a valuable investment for any garage. There are various options of epoxy coatings available in terms of cost and durability to suit different needs.

There is no denying that adding an extra layer of protection through epoxy will greatly benefit the longevity and sturdiness of your garage’s concrete floor. You have plenty of choices when it comes to selecting an appropriate type of coating depending on your needs.

What is the downside to epoxy garage?

One drawback of using epoxy for garage floors is that they can become extremely slippery when coated with oil, which may pose a safety hazard. Areas where spills or water buildup occur frequently are not suitable for this type of flooring and it would be less ideal to use in garages as a result. It’s also can be more expensive than other coverings, and certainly more than raw concrete.

What is the recommended time for the epoxy coating on my garage floor to cure before walking on it?

It is suggested to give the epoxy coating on your garage floor about a week to dry before stepping or driving on it. This will allow sufficient time for the epoxy to fully cure and ensure its durability.

Building and renovating can be one of the most stressful things you will take on during your life.  Although you might engage a builder, pool company, renovator, or architect you might still be left wondering what is my part in this process?  Many times, I heard from people saying I don’t know what’s going on with my project and what am I to do to that will ensure there are no delays and I get the result I’m after.

As I previously mentioned majority of people will be likely to only ever to do this once in their life time so they are not expected to know the ins and outs and what I see is that the contractor they have employed and are paying all this money to expect that the client will know everything, when that is not the case, nor should it be expected!

What we offer is a service that creates a bridge between you and your head contractor.  We work through the project with you and your builder helping you understand what tasks you need to undertake and at what stages to ensure that streamlined process.

Examples of what you might be expected to know.

You may be interested in our recent Toorak Gardens case study.

In House Design

We understand that you’re not a builder or an interior designer, but your builder may not!  We can offer the services of an in-house designer to help you get right layout of your kitchen and the correct colour pallet to compliment the entire project.

Understanding Your Selections

When building or renovating you are going to have to select finishes for items such as kitchen and bathrooms.  You will be asked things like do you want 2 pack or shaker doors?  Do you want Caesar stone of laminate bench tops?  Do you want mixer taps or a breacher piece?  Are the wall cupboards going to have pelmets or open?  What type of light switches and power points do you want?  Are the floors getting carpeted or polished concrete?

Along with these selection questions will come the questions of lead times and what needs to happen first during the building process.

 

What Comes First

Consider your putting a pool in, you will need to have selected the tiles, coping and grout colours.  These all need to be chosen well before the pool gets installed.  Then what happens have you engaged a plumber and electrician?  These two trades will play a crucial role in your project and knowing what to get them to do in the right order is critical to your pool’s installation success.  Pool fencing is it compliant and will it meet council pool inspections?

There are various stages during a building project which need to happen before each other to ensure that things happen correctly without the need to re do work and consequently cost more money and cause time delays.

Renovating A Bathroom

When you renovate a bathroom or ensuite there will be some key items to have selected early in the project.  What tapware will you be using?  What type of floor grate will you use?  Are there any significant lead times?  Majority of these crucial points many builders expect that you the client will already be across and have ready for them.

Storm Water

Majority of building contracts will stipulate storm water by owner.  There are many key points to consider with storm water installations.  Will there be sump pumps, if so, how do you get electricity to these?  Does there need to be sleeves put under the drive way for future connections?  What has the councils minimum site catchment requirement been set out?  What fixtures does the rain water need to feed?  Is there a requirement for firefighting water on the property?

How we help you!

At Mayfair Building Group we are here to help you step by step through the building process.  We can meet with you before you even start a renovation to help you understand time frames and potential costs.  We can also start with you right at the very early stages of the project and help to understand the various stages the project will need to go through just to get started.  From there we can help you through the other various stages of the project helping you understand what will be expected and in what order you might need these steps to go in.

It is amazing to hear just how many people have no real idea of what is happening with their building process and just rely upon the head contractor to involve them and this doesn’t seem to happen very often.

We are here to offer you a step-by-step process of what you are to expect, provide with information on where to choose your various styles and materials and to ensure your project is moving along in the right direction.  We can help you in ensure that the progress claims are equal to the work being claimed for.  Dispute resolution between you and the builder.

 

 

Tailoring A Package For Your Project

We understand each project is different and every project will require a different level of involvement from us with you.  We can offer a package which might only require a handful of hours and offer packages which will include 30 hours of our help for you, whatever your requirements we will tailor a package to suit your needs.

If you find that the during the project, you need more help we also an hourly rate to make sure you get what you need right to the hand over process and moving in.

Please feel free to contact us for further information on info@mayfairbuildinggroup.com.au OR call us on 0429 361 819 we would like to hear about your project and help you get through the process as smooth as possible.  We offer services all around Australia, we can’t wait to hear from you.

It would be a fair assumption that none of us will ever forget the year 2020 and Corona Virus.  No matter who you are there would have been some impact on your life in one way or another.  Some people had positive results from the pandemic, but many saw what can only be described as a horrendous year in 2020 with some flow on affects still carrying through to 2021.

How has Mayfair Building Group approached the Corona Virus

At the start of the pandemic many in the building industry feared the worse and started to scale back manufacturing.  Take Laminex for example they started to scale back there manufacturing shifts in the fear of a huge downturn in the building industry across Australia, as did many other manufacturing companies such as timber suppliers.  Consumer confidence was down, media hype was at its peak and a few of our projects in Crafers, Toorak Gardens and Glenelg all went on pause until a clear direction could be established of where this was all going to lead?

As a local Adelaide family owned and operated small to medium building company in South Australia, we are fortunate to have small projects to keep our tradies busy while some of the larger ones slowed.  We managed to keep our plumbers, brickies, cabinet makers, electricians, tilers and carpenters all busy with bathroom renovations, kitchen make overs and huge renovation which was well under way in Tusmore.  The interaction all changed a little with social distancing, check ins and other various hygiene practises implemented, but all in all the building processes still ticked along well.

 

 

Government Stimulus Package

As we have touched on previously in one of early blog posts the government introduced the $25,000 stimulus package back in June 2020 and anticipated 27,000 households would apply for the grant which would encourage an up take in the slowing building industry.

As we currently speak 88,264 applications have been made for the government grant and this accounts for $2.075bn in grants if they are all successful.

As you would expect consumer confidence was back up and there was a sigh of relief that just maybe we can all get through this in the building industry.  Many new home builders saw a huge increase in the number of new homes which are going to be built in 2021 and many small to medium builders such as Mayfair Building Group saw an increase in small home renovations and additions.  The key was meeting various deadlines such as approvals, commencement dates and completion dates in order to lock in the government grant, the race was on!

A Spanner In The Works!

So here we all are early 2020 thinking how is this possible a virus no one knows very much about is causing such an upheaval around the globe and we are all trying to forecast the future.  Well fast forward to March 2021 and we now have another problem which the Adelaide building and renovation market is facing, no materials!

No materials, how has this happened?  As you may remember me mentioning earlier in this article many manufacturers slowed down processing and manufacturing, a lot of materials like tiles, stone bench tops, kitchen range hoods, reinforcement steel for concrete slabs and bathroom renovation fixtures are still stuck offshore and delivery dates are still not confirmed.

Other items such as timber is currently seeing many Adelaide renovations gradually slowing down.  Many large home builders are currently being preferred for supply of structural timber due to there huge buying power and massive orders that were placed at the start of the government stimulus announcement.  Whereas other smaller builders are finding it hard to get structural timer for their projects.  Items such as 90 x 35 and 90 x 45 timbers are still available for top and bottom plates, stud walls and noggings.  Many timber manufacturers will not commit to delivery dates at this stage for their products, so watch this space.

The Future Of 2021 In The Adelaide Building Market

Unfortunately, we are already hearing stories of some smaller building firms starting to run behind schedule and a growing pressure being placed upon them from their clients to keep up with project milestones.  Will this force the closure of these building companies?  We hope not, but time will tell.

What will be next?  A shortage in dry wall materials, steel and insulation?  Perhaps as we have already seen the first stages of the building phase already struggling.  Although many builders will see huge benefits from the government stimulus package some will not be as fortunate due material shortages which is a real shame.

Our projects which I mentioned at the start in Crafers, Glenelg and Toorak Gardens have just about been completed with final hand overs anticipated to be in April this year.

If you are looking at doing a kitchen renovation or a bathroom renovation this year in 2021 please get in contact as we still have spots available for mid to late this year across Adelaide and the Adelaide Hills of South Australia.

When it comes to extending or building a new structure on the ground floor the type of soil in which we will be working with is important to identify. Various suburbs of Adelaide are known to have reactive soils locations such as Oakden, Lights View, Northgate and Aberfoyle Park. Our recent project was undertaken in Aberfoyle Park as you will see below.

Ground Movement When Building

A client recently contacted us to investigate some ground movement along the side of there house. The area in question was located outside two of there bathrooms and it was covered by an over head shade sail. The first thing to do was lift the pavers and see what condition the soil is in below. Immediately upon removing a few pavers it was noted that the soil was all very wet, spongey and there were air pockets present. The next step was to keep excavating until dry soil could be found, unfortunately this did not happen, and the soil continued to get more saturated the deeper we went to nearly 1 metre in depth. It was at the depth of 1 metre the soil had become black and almost 100 percent saturated, it was like digging in a swamp!

Why so much moisture this deep in the ground?

As previously mentioned, Aberfoyle Park is known for having reactive soils meaning that they are likely to shrink and expand due to the nature of its makeup. When we encounter such conditions its crucial that various precautions are put in place to protect items such as the concrete slab, external fixtures and services running under and into the building. The concrete slab is likely to have more steel installed in it and have thicker areas to help it maintain its integrity when the soils shrink and expand. Services such as plumbing drains should have expansion and swivel joints installed to allow the drains to move without causing damage to the pipes.

When the hole was further excavated, we found that the sewer drain was in this location and could well be responsible for what is allowing all this moisture into the hole. We followed the direction of the sewer drain to the underside of the perimeter footing where a small pond was found. Between the water membrane and the concrete slab was a huge amount of water just sitting there. The main sewer pipe which ran from outside the home’s perimeter and through the middle of the house to pick up the kitchen and laundry sinks had snapped in half (as seen in image) this was the cause for so much moisture in this area.

How to fix such a problem?

In order to have this issue properly fixed we needed to now engage one of our plumbers to attend the site and asses the damage. The drain was further excavated to see what condition it was in down stream as the system was still holding a large amount of waste water. The drain was exposed another few meters where it was identified as having collapsed due to ground movement in this area also. The lack of any type of flexible connections or expansion control devices certainly did not help, and the lack of quality fill being used provided a deadly combination which lead to this disaster. We would now need to identify a suitable point in which to join back onto the sewer system and then carefully re-install the drainage system with the correct swivel and expansion connections to prevent any future damage to the pipe system.

Making good of the bad situation

Once the new sewer drain had been installed using the required swivel and expansion fittings and then tested it was time to have all the contaminated spoil removed from the site and new class A material imported to begin the backfilling process. Carefully the trench was backfilled and compacted in layers to ensure good support for the pipes and for the pavers which would be re-installed. Once all backfilling was completed it would be time for our paver to attend and cut the pavers to now allow for the new inspection openings for the drain to be raised to surface and install the pavers.

Working with reactive soils is always a challenge and can cost more in the initial build stages BUT as you have just seen in this situation for the sake of a few hundred dollars’ worth of flexible connections and some good quality imported fill a situation such as this may have been avoided. When it comes to building there should never be any short cuts taken because the consequences can be disastrous.

The NCC and Australian Standards have strict rules and methods of which must be adhered to when building or renovating a property, whether it be commercial, industrial or residential.  These processes have been put in place to protect human lives and restrict damage to buildings during the event of a fire occurring.

When we look at class 1 through to class 10a buildings we must ensure these buildings are either built at correct distances from one another, separated using the correct fire rating methods, provide adequate access during a fire or a combination of all rules.

What are some examples of correct building practices to ensure fire safety?

• 900mm is the distance in which any class 1 building must be built as a minimum from a boundary that it is built on. If, however there is another building on the same allotment the distance is increased to 180mm between the two buildings.
• Class 1a buildings such as town houses, terrace houses and dwellings attached by a common wall must be have the wall which joins the two properties constructed of a fire rated material. Typical construction methods used to create this barrier are double bricked walls protecting each property from one another during a fire starting.
• Commercial buildings such as Class 5 and Class 6 may have penetrations going through the floor or dividing tenancy walls for systems such as air-conditioning, electrical and plumbing services. These must be sealed using approved products such as fire collars, fire rated mastic and fire rated pillows.  All of these are designed to stop the spread of fire through the penetration as they close over the opening when in contact with fire.
• Cladding of structural members to ensure their integrity during a fire. If we look at multi storey construction the steel members which are used to hold up and tie in the building need protection from a fire for a certain period to enable the fire to be bought under control.  In a situation where the steel column or beam may form part of an internal feature it will be cladded in fire rated gyprock so that it can still be painted and or decorated.  If, however the structural member is concealed in a ceiling space or a plant room you might see it encased in vermiculite.

Building in a bush fire zone

Adelaide has many locations where Class 1 to 10a buildings are built and susceptible to bush fires.  Take for example the Adelaide Hills this is classed as a zone that would be more likely to endure the affects of a bush fire as opposed to somewhere such as Unley.  When it comes time to get approval for a building or structure to be built it must be approved against what Bushfire Attack Level it faces (BAL).  There are 6 levels of bushfire protection legislated and these are:

• BALzone low = General bushfire area
• BALzone 12.5 = Medium bushfire area
• BALzone 19 = High bushfire area
• BALzone 29 = protection level more than high
• BALzone 40 = protection level more than high
• BALzone FZ = protection level more than high (most extreme level in the NCC)

Depending on the risk to fire your building is going to be zoned it will depend on what specific requirements the site will need to meet.  Below are some examples of the requirements relating to each zone:

High risk protection planning provisions:

• Have a dedicated water supply of a minimum amount of 22,000 litres
• Ensure any gaps between dwelling floor and ground are enclosed to prevent burning debris from entering
• Be constructed at a minimum of 20 metres from flammable and combustible materials
• Located and designed to minimise the risk from bush fires
• Provide adequate access to and from the property for vehicles including fire fighting machinery during the event of a fire

Medium and general risk protection planning provisions:

• Have a dedicated water supply of a minimum amount of 5,000 litres
• Ensure any gaps between dwelling floor and ground are enclosed to prevent burning debris from entering
• Be constructed at a minimum of 20 metres from flammable and combustible materials
• Located and designed to minimise the risk from bush fires
• Provide adequate access to and from the property for vehicles including fire fighting machinery during the event of a fire

Protection from fire is one of the most vital components of any building project and adhering to the NCC and Australian Standards is something that cannot be cheated on.  These rules and legislation have been put in place to protect human life and structures.  When considering building in a bush fire zone you should always obtain the services of a qualified builder who can ensure that your project will adhere to the correct fire safety rules, your life might depend upon it one day.

 

 

 

Recently, Prime Minister Scott Morrison announced a $25,000 stimulus grant for eligible owner-occupiers who wish to build a new home or substantially renovate an existing dwelling. The package was introduced as part of the Federal government’s economic response as a result of Coronavirus.

This tax-free grant has been introduced to stimulate the construction sector and ease lull periods in recent months due to Coronavirus and has been welcomed by many in the industry with open arms.

But, what are the requirements and are you eligible for the grant? We’ve put together a list of questions we’re being asked to help our customers identify if they’re eligible and how they can access it.

Am I eligible for the HomeBuilder Grant?

In summary, you must live in the house you’re building or substantially renovating in addition to the following criteria.

Other eligibility requirements include:

• You’re an Australian citizen of 18 years old and over.
• You are an individual. You can’t access the grant through a trust.
• You earn less than $125,000 per year for individual applicants and less than $200,000 combined per couple (based on 2018-19FY or later).
• You have to spend between $150 000 and $750,000 on a renovation for a house worth less than $1.5 million.
• You wish to build a new home with a value of less than $750,000, including land value.

It’s important to note that this tax-free grant applies to all building types (houses, off the plan, land packages, houses and apartments) and all owner-occupiers, not just first-home buyers. Investors are not eligible for the HomeBuilders Grant.

What builders can I use for the HomeBuilders Grant?

Your builder must be registered and fully licensed according to South Australian law.

As is the case in ordinary circumstances, you must spend some time doing your research. Only consider builders with a proven track record and good reputation, so you know you’re protecting your investment.

What if I own the land I want to build on but haven’t yet signed a contract with a builder?

If you own a property, whether it’s an apartment or a house, and you knock that apartment down to rebuild, this will be considered a substantial renovation. Therefore, your project must fall within the price bracket of $150,000 to $750,000 and under the combined land/house value of $1. 5 million.

Regardless of when you bought the land, and you choose to build a new home, the total combined land/build value can’t be more than $750,000.

When can I access my HomeBuilder grant?

To apply for your HomeBuilder grant, you must enter into a building contract between June 4th and December 31st of this year, with construction starting within three months of the contract date.

With the decision-making process being lengthy and council approval taking time, we recommend starting the process as soon as possible, to avoid missing out.

What documents do I need to have available when applying?

To support your application, you’ll need to provide the following documentation:

• Official proof of identification
• A signed and dated contract between you and your licensed builder
• A copy of their South Australian registration or license
• An official copy of your 2018-19FY (or later) tax return proving you’re under the income cap.
• Any supporting documentation such as approvals, occupation certificates and proof of land value.

Although this grant is a federal government-led initiative, the South Australian government will be handling notifications. If you’re unsuccessful and still believe you’re eligible, you can contact the relevant dispute resolution body to have it appealed.

Will the South Australian government be adding to the package for South Australian residents?

Unlike some state and territory governments, the South Australian government have announced they will be not adding to the $25,000 HomeBuilder package for its residents, or abolishing stamp duty. They’ve, however, expressed more support will be available to SA residents in the coming weeks.

Currently, the SA government offers $15,000 for property buyers who build a new home (valued at less than $575,000). Details on this pre-existing grant can be found here. With the two grants mentioned above combined, first home buyers can save up to $40,000 on their first home (conditions apply), making now a better time than ever to build.

In addition to the above, the South Australian government will not be making any adjustments to the off-the-plan stamp duty concession, which is valued at $21,330 on houses with a value of less than $500,000.

Refer to your state and territory concessions here.

For more information on how to apply for the HomeBuilder grant, or to find out how Mayfair Plumbing & Gasfitting can assist, please contact us today.

It seems to be happening far to often the head contractor or project manager on a project collapses and leaves one big mess left for others to clean up.  Again, we have been engaged as a preferred insurance builder to take over from where one builder has packed up and left the site of this house renovation with a pile of defects 33 pages long to be exact.  The property is in the Adelaide Hills of South Australia and the builder has gone into administration leaving the property owner with the problem to deal with.

What are the issues we have been left to deal with?

Majority of the problems on this project are relating to water entering the building through poor external finishes which have then led to internal issues (a snowball affect).

The Roof

Most likely the biggest cause and biggest expense to have fixed.  The style of roof used at this property is Skillion.  There have been 2 box gutters constructed and both are of poor finishes.  The box gutters have inadequate falls and the metal roof sheets which lead into them have been cut short (40mm short a large amount, considering they should have a 50mm overlap into the box gutter so overall 90mm short).  The result of this is that water is not flowing away fast enough and secondly it is not entering the box gutter all the time and making its way into the gyprock ceiling causing internal damage to ceiling but now also the bamboo floating floors.

Down Pipes And Rain Head

The down pipes have not been constructed to the correct sizes and the same with the rain heads.  All these issues add to the lack of ability to have the water removed from the roof quick enough once again allowing the box gutter to fill up and overflow into the ceiling inside the house.

Flashings

The property has had new windows installed and around majority of these windows the final flashings have not been installed.  Along with the window’s other penetrations etc have not been sealed correctly or not at all.  Once again, all these items are allowing any water which might meet these fixtures to penetrate and further cause water damage inside to items such as carpets and gyprock wall linings.

Internal Linings And Coverings

As previously mentioned above items such as the gyprock, carpet and bamboo flooring have all been damaged and will all now need either repairing or removal and reinstallation.

Solving the problems

After thorough investigations and identification of the problems it is certainly a positive step forward; now finding the best way to fix the issues while causing minimal disruptions especially heading into winter.  The most important job which is also the largest is having the roofing sheets removed along with the box gutter in order to have all this reinstated properly and making most of the building watertight to firstly avoid further damage and allow for internal progress to take place.

 

It is something that can be over looked either during the design phase or construction process and even after many years of building being in operation the thermal protection may need maintenance. Today many designers and engineers are across the many available options on the market but like everything it comes down to price, BUT with the wrong product or no thermal protection the longer-term costs will almost be guaranteed to out way the initial costs back in the building process.

What areas of a building does thermal insulation impact?

Thermal insulation comes in many different forms and provides the same service to each area it is applied to. The design is to assist with lower energy bills through maintaining steady/constant temperatures to the material it is associated with. An example is the older properties we renovate in Adelaide such as Unley and Myrtle Bank have no insulation on the underside of the sheet iron allowing for a variety issues such as noise and excessive amounts of temperature differentials in the roof space to occur.

Case Study

We recently under took an energy audit of a block of 50 apartments in the suburb of Plympton in South Australia. There were various suggestions put forward to assist with energy conservation such as sensor activated lighting, roof ventilation to help hot air be expelled during summer, decrease draft entering under doorways, double glazing of glass, water saving shower heads, thicker curtains and solar electric panels on the roof for electricity. One of the main issues which has been immediately dealt with was the thermal protection to a large commercial scale water heating plant.

Approximately 10 years ago a contractor was engaged to upgrade some of the infrastructure which provides huge amounts of hot water to the large volume of showers and baths at this facility. The installation was very poor and as you will see in the photos below majority of the pipe work which carries hot water into and around this apartment complex was missing or barely had any thermal protection. What this meant is that you have copper tube carrying 65 degrees of water exposed to elements allowing for a huge temperature drop. In turn the water heaters were working a lot harder then needed and the client’s energy bills were through the roof.

A process such as the one described above was labour intensive, but even by the time we had completed only a third of the new pipe work insulation the increased temperature being kept inside of the pipes could be felt as we installed the insulation, the pipes were becoming warmer and even to a point towards the end of the process where they were hard to handle because the temperature of the water was being maintained to higher level. This entire process took a total of two full days and two staff members.

Keeping the costs low

With the continual rising of energy bills it has become increasingly harder for businesses to maintain the running costs while still trying to remain competitive in the market place. It is crucial that every part of the business is operating in an energy efficient manner. Sometimes businesses need to spend a bit of money to create a better environment in which they can start to save money. Today there are still state government incentives and rebates on offer for certain energy saving methods which not only gives the owner a money credit but the appliance being installed will immediately start to impact on the lowering of utility bills. If you are considering trying to decrease your utility bills contact us today and let us perform an energy audit on your property.

Wood, timber or lumber whatever you call you it that doesn’t matter we all understand these terms in the building industry.  BUT it’s the selection of the correct type of timber you make that will be the crucial decision.

Making The Right Wood Choice

There are few quick questions we need to answer in order to make the right choice:

1. Will the timber be providing any structural support?
2. Is the timber going to be exposed to moisture?
3. Will the timber be exposed or covered?

Once these three questions have been answered it then makes the selection process easier and will ensure your timber will give the desired result and perform to its anticipated tasks.

 

Wood For Structural Support

As a general rule a piece of timber that could be used for structural support across an opening for a window or doorway will be sized in accordance to the timber framing code and will generally be much heavier and thicker in size in order to perform the task in which it has been selected (structural support).  In the case of a load bearing wall being removed and structural support is needed to create a larger opening you might find a piece of timber called and LVL (laminated veneer lumber) being used.  These timbers are high in strength and engineered to suit a specific purpose where high demand is to be placed upon it ie: high roof load width (RLW)

 

Timbers which will have a high chance of meeting moisture throughout their life should be treated (permapine H3).  Being treated means that timber will be resistant to pests, decay, white ants and other deteriorating factors.  It will have a green/blue tinge to it which makes it easily identifiable to ensure the correct timber is being used for the right location.  It also makes it easier for the buyer to select the right timber from the lumber yard.

Exposed Timber

The final consideration is if the timber to be used will it be exposed.  Take for example an outdoor deck.  This timber is not only going to be completely exposed to the weather it will also need to be hard wearing.  Jarrah, black butt, iron wood, spotted gum, swan river red, tallow wood and merbau are some of the more common timbers used for this.  Over time they change colour and getting darker with age.  In order to maintain these timber members regular oiling is highly recommended (usually every year).  As the name suggest “hard wood” it is harder to cut and longer lasting.  You will find though this type of material comes at a cost and species such as the Jarrah although it looks amazing nicely oiled will burn a hole in your back pocket when it comes to the initial purchase costs.

 

If you are considering the purchase of timber for your next project and need a little help, please feel to contact us.  One of our skilled trades people will be only too happy to help.